The correct bow and arrow combination is vital for accurate shooting -and whatever anyone says, hitting what you aim at is far more enjoyable than looking for an arrow in the grass or undergrowth (or looking for pieces of arrow)!

A good arrow will make the best of an average bow - a poorly made and badly matched arrow will not perform well however good your bow is.

Most archers are aware of the 'archer's paradox' where the arrow bends past the bow - but many do not understand just how important it is to understand this, and how a simple thing such as spining the arrow and cutting it to the right length will greatly improve it's flight -and your accuracy! For an idea of the degree of bend an arrow undergoes when shot from a 45lb longbow see here.


1. No of arrows (usually a set of 8) unless specialist flight, historic or primitive.
2. Diameter of shaft, and spine (AMO) system measured at 26inches -if you know it.
3. Fletching shape length and colour. Shield or parabolic, Various colours available.
4. Type/weight of head -modkin, brass or blunt
5. Colour of nock/self nock
6. Cresting/naming requirements

7. If a footing or self nock is required 

If you aren't sure, please contact me via email for advice, stating weight of bow, your drawlength and distances (field or target) at which you generally compete.

whippy arrow image 1

At full draw the arrow is already slightly bent against the bow, induced by the rolling of the fingers on the string.

At the moment of release, pictured above, the arrow bends around the bow.

Whippy arrow image 2

Because it is flexing incorrectly, the back end of the arrow strikes the bow as it passes.
The arrow must clear the bow, and then straighten sufficiently early to head for the target without 'gadding' from side to side (too whippy a spine) or, for a right handed archer, flying to the left (too stiff).

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